RIP Gilbert Janeri

Gilbert Janeri, in a photo taken shortly before his departure to Spain

 The family of the Brazilian found dead last Saturday morning in Spain have decided to complete the Camino not finished by Gilbert Janeri, 43 years of age. According to Sonia Toledo (sister), Gilbert's body will be cremated in Brazil on March 30 and she, her husband, daughter, and son-in-law will depart by car to finish The Way for him.

Sonia said it was her brother's wish that if he could not survive the journey, his body be cremated and his ashes left at the Cruz de Ferro.

"We have decided to make the journey by car and get the stamps as we pass through the villages, as Gilbert wished," she said.

The Brazilian executive was found dead on Saturday morning by park rangers on one of the trails near the Camino de Santiago. According to the family, he was 700 meters away from the route. "We do not know if the snow hid the plates with arrows. Surely he was lost."

The last contact with the family of Gilbert was done by e-mail on March 6 in the city of Saint Jean Pied de Port, France. He had written that he was not sure if he would take the path through the Pyrenees or some other. It was snowing and there were very few pilgrims on the trail.

"He told us not to worry, that he would contact us to let us know he was safe," said his sister. "We spent a week without news, waiting, and nothing. We sent e-mail, and he did not answer. But we thought soon we would receive news. Many people are shocked."

Gilbert's body was found five hours walk from St. Jean. The Consulate of Brazil in Barcelona told the relatives that the executive may have died of a heart attack, but there is no confirmation yet.

Sonia believes this was the cause of the death of her brother.  Their father also died of a heart attack at age 46. According to the sister, Gilbert was a smoker and despite having been prepared to walk the Camino, the first section has very steep climbs and the deep snow may have made the trek more difficult.

The sister suggested that Gilbert felt he would not come back alive, and a weekend before he left, the family attended the film The Way, in which the main character travels to France to recover the body of his son, killed on the Camino de Santiago.

Gilbert worked at a Canadian logistics company in Brazil and eventually came to live in Canada, where he obtained citizenship.  

He leaves a son.

* * *

To be wrapped in the snowy wings of the Pyrenees is not such a bad way to go.

Many of us understand this burning desire you had to follow the call of the Camino. 

We are thankful you were doing something you loved.

May you rest in Peace, Gilbert.

We will remember you.

Love, 

Annie

A Busy Day Planning My Camino

Wow!

I'm doing a Happy Dance today!

I woke up and couldn't believe I had actually purchased a ticket yesterday!

I guess old age has made me fearless, 

because I really do NOT have the money for this trip. 

Luckily, one can walk in Spain almost cheaper than staying at home!

Today is a planning day. 

I have so much to do!

I got on the Godesalco website this morning 

and made a loose plan of my trip, 

based on some tips from my Camino friend, Laurie, 

who walked this route last year.

If you are planning a Camino, this is a great website. 

You can put in your beginning and ending places,

 and it will give you a list of towns, showing facilities that are available. 

Then you can pick which towns you will stop in and at the end, 

there are several options for printing,

 including an elevation profile of your walk.

Profile Example

There are several stages over 30 kilometers in the guidebooks,
and my old feet won't walk that far.
So I'm figuring out ways to break those stages in pieces.

My comfort limit is about 20-24 k per day,
which translates to 12-14 miles.
Luckily, most of the terrain on the first part of the VDLP is flat walking,
or gently rolling hills.
The rough stuff comes later in Galicia,
 after I've gotten into better shape.

Looks like it should take me around 40-45 days to complete the VDLP,
barring problems.

That leaves me another 30 days to play on the Camino Frances,
and to visit Little Fox House in Muxia. 

Praia do Lago, on the beach trail to The Little Fox House!

Today I have to order a new clothesline.
I lost mine on the last trip.
I love this one from the Rick Steves website.
 It's about $10 and works great without pins or pegs.
 It also is more sturdy than others I've used.

 

I'll spend one night in Madrid.

Then.. I'll take RENFRE or a bus to Seville.

 I haven't decided yet which way I'll go. 

I am 60 now and eligible for a nice little card 

that will give me 20-40% discounts on travel and hotel arrangements. 

So I'll pick that up in Madrid,

 then decide which way is the least expensive way to get to Seville, 

where I've made reservations for two nights at Pension Vergara.

This place looks a little cluttered, but fun! 

And it's right across the way from the Cathedral, 

so it will be very convenient.
Hopefully it won't be perfumed,
in which case I'll have to find other lodging.

Here is what the website says about this Pension:

Hostal-Pensión Vergara is a restored convent in the Santa Cruz district, 250 metres from Seville Cathedral. 
Set on a quiet pedestrian street, it offers free Wi-Fi and a 24-hour reception.
Air-conditioned rooms at the Vergara feature tiled floors and come with a safe and work desk. 
Set around a garden patio, all have shared bathroom facilities and some have a private balcony.
There are vending machines for drinks. 
Many shops, bars and restaurants can be found within a short walk of the Vergara. 
Luggage storage is offered and there is a tour desk. 
Public parking is available nearby for an extra charge.

I'm spending two days in Seville so I can take a day to visit Italica again.
These wonderful Roman ruins are fascinating and worth a few hours.
I think I'll do a blog on Italica later today if I have the time.

Right now, I must get dressed and get busy!  
I have to figure out what gear I'll need.
I'm considering leaving my down sleeping bag home
and making a microfleece sleep sheet.
I want my pack to be as light as possible.

Hoping to keep it simple,
Love,
Annie

Via de la Plata - Second Edition

Well, I did it!

I bought my ticket for Madrid today!

After two nights there to adjust to the time change, I'll take a train to Seville.

 

I will attempt to finish, or at least make a dent in, the Via de la Plata, picking up from Fuente de Cantos, where I was forced to stop due to heat and no water a few years ago.

I'm going to arrive in Seville on May 10 and stay two nights so I can visit Italica.

Then I'll find a bus to Fuente and begin walking on May 12, if all goes well.

I've got a great itinerary, thanks to one of my forum friends Laurie, and hope the weather will be sunny and warm, but not hot.

I'm excited!

More tomorrow.

:::doing a happy dance:::

I'm going to Spain!

Annie

A Pilgrim Has Died on the Camino

Photo by Sylvia Nilsen

While walking the Camino, you will on occasion pass a memorial or marker indicating a place where a pilgrim has lost his or her life. The feeling for me is a combination of sadness, curiosity and respect.

I feel sad for the family because maybe this made their terrible fear come true, fear that the Camino is not safe, that their loved one would come to harm. I feel sad that the pilgrim did not finish the journey. I wonder what their last thoughts were? I am curious about the details. How did they die? Was it a heart attack? A stroke? Were they alone or with friends? How old was this person? And then those feelings turn to a deep respect that this pilgrim died while doing something that was more important to them than the fear of death. . . that their love for this pilgrimage made their death meaningful. Wouldn't we all like to die doing something we love? I know I would.

And so, these were the same feelings I had when I heard about the 42 year old man whose body was found on the Camino this week between St. Jean Pied de Port and Roncesvalles. From what I've heard in the forums, he was within sight of refuge.  Here is the latest report, posted by Navarricano, who lives in Pamplona. This is a quick translation of the article which appeared in the Saturday edition of the Diario de Navarra:
 * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * *

A Brazilian pilgrim was found dead in a small gorge near Mt. Ortzanzurieta (Roncesvalles). The body was discovered by the forest ranger responsible for the area. The place in which the body of the pilgrim was found indicates that he had lost his way, and that he had suffered a fall. His backpack was found some 70 meters above the spot where his body lay.

He was apparently traveling alone, and until Friday nobody sounded the alarm that he was missing. For this reason, despite the fact that all of his personal identity papers were found in his backpack, an autopsy is required to confirm that the information contained in the documents correspond to those of the body that was recovered. Until the autopsy is complete, the deceased appears to be G.C.J., a resident in Canada. The location of the body suggests that the pilgrim died several days ago and the body only discovered once the snow had begun to melt.

The ranger had gone to inspect the area following the thaw. The body was discovered a little before 11.00 a.m. He alerted SOS Navarra, who in turn alerted the Burguete fire department, a medical team, the Guardia Civil and a helicopter rescue squad.

Three firefighters set out from Burguete. A fourth firefighter set out from Valcarlos, where he was serving as a replacement during the winter. The former left their vehicle parked at the albergue in Roncesvalles, from where the path that leads to the gorge starts. From there they had to continue on foot. Equipped with skis and snowshoes to walk on the snow, they also carried with them the equipment normally required to respond to these types of emergencies: a stretcher, a backpack with a first-aid kit, and another with clothing.

Following the ranger's indications, the firefighters began their trek. The going was initially over flat terrain, but soon became an uphill climb. Access to the area where the body lay was complicated due not only to the snow, but also because as they drew nearer to the gorge, the path was slicked with deep mud and wet leaves that made their path even more slippery. The helicopter crew followed their progress from the air as they made their ascent.

Following an hours' trek, the firefighters reached the forest ranger and the body of the pilgrim, resting face down in the gorge. At this point the Guardia Civil verified the pilgrim's death and ordered the corpse be removed from the area. The body was carried to an area where it could be tied to the stretcher and lifted to the helicopter, which transported it to the Navarran Institute of Forensic Medicine.

The Guardia Civil is in charge of the proceedings. Following the autopsy and the confirmation of the victim's identity, the Canadian consulate will be contacted in order to initiate the victim's repatriation to Canada.

It is clear from the small map that appeared in the article showing where the body was discovered that the pilgrim, upon reaching the Lepoeder hill, became disoriented. Everything was covered in snow, he could not follow the markings easily, and he headed off in the wrong direction as a result, ending up on a very dangerous cliff, where he slipped and fell into the gorge.
* * * * * * * * * * * * * * * *

Those of us who have walked this route know this area. It is steep and slippery any time of year, can be treacherous in the rain, and apparently deadly in the snow.

This is a reminder, people.

If you are planning a winter Camino, please pay attention to the advice from the local people, the hospitaleros, and the staff in St. Jean Pied de Port. These people understand the weather of their region, which can quickly change from sunshine to severe.  If they tell you to take the lower route along the road, please listen!

I'm not suggesting this poor man did not heed advice; perhaps nobody told him the dangers of crossing this upper route during winter. But the snow is extremely deep this year. The trail markers are not tall enough to be seen, and it can be very foggy in addition. This leads to a chance of becoming disoriented and stepping off onto what you believe is firm ground, but is in fact a snowbank hiding a cliff, which appears to be what happened here.

This was a young, healthy man.
I'm sad for his family.

Buen Camino, Peregrino.
May you rest in peace.

Photo by Iasramblings

Patty Moak - Pilgrim Photographer

In Fall 2012, Joe and I led a group of pilgrims 

on a 3 week walk on the Camino de Santiago. 

This trip is nice for people who don't have an entire 6 weeks to walk,

 and who might be more comfortable

 walking with an experienced pilgrim. 

One of my walkers was Patty Moak, 

 from my home town, Portland, Oregon.

Patty with her friend Ponferrada

Patty was a delight to have on this trip! 

Always positive and up-beat, 

her great attitude was a boon to her fellow pilgrims.    

When we returned home, 

some of the pilgrims shared photos they'd taken along the Way, 

and I really enjoyed the photos Patty had taken. 

I asked about her photography experience.  

Here is what I learned.

Patty Moak was born in Sacramento, California in 1942. 

Like many pilgrims, 

Patty decided to do the Camino to honor her birthday

 - her 70th birthday!  

Until that point, she had never been East of Colorado 

or on plane for more than 4 hours. 

Patty says the thought of traveling alone to a foreign country 

whose language she didn't speak was overwhelming at first. 

She says, "I heard about you, Annie, through a friend

and signed up. 

It was the most extraordinary experience of my life 

and the hardest, most challenging one. 

Harder even than the longest backpacking trip at 10,000 feet elevation. 

That being said, I'm going back in Spring 2014 to do the whole 500 miles."

Patty's interest in photography began in 1980 

while on a sailing boat on San Francisco Bay with friends. 

She had a small camera and took some really good photos with it. 

She got her first SLR in 1981 and her first digital SLR in 2005. 

She now has a Cannon T4i and a Cannon S100. 

The S100 went to Spain with her. 

Patty enjoys shooting mostly nature,

landscapes and old buildings. 

Spain was paradise for her!. 

Everywhere she turned, there was a superb photo op!

Once returning to Portland, Patty

 began taking photography classes at PCC. 

She belongs  to a photography group. 

At the moment, they are attending a lot of workshops, 

because the Portland winter weather isn't conducive to outdoor photo shoots. 

Patty says she loves being in the wilderness. 

She says, "I like old buildings and houses 

and ghost towns because they tell a story in some way."

I'm encouraging Patty to put up a Flickr account and to share her photos.

 But for now, following are some of my favorite photos Patty took 

while walking the Camino Santiago with our group in the Fall of 2012. 

I've chosen these photos because they show 

some of the varied landscapes you'll be walking, 

and some of the things you'll become familiar with as a pilgrim.

Pulpo, or fresh octopus, is a common sight on some sections of The Way.

 In O Cebreiro and in Melide, 

pulpo is a very popular dish.

I suggest you get a group together 

and order a dish of pulpo.

That way, if you don't care for it,

you can order something more to your taste.

But please, 

give it a try!

You may be pleasantly surprised.

Which way will you go?

 Monjarin is a well-known place along the Camino.

It is run by Tomas, 

a self-described modern Templar Knight.

The Templars were wonderful friends 

to the pilgrims,

protecting them along The Way.

Tomas does a great job

keeping the tradition alive.

There is no running water, however, 

at Monjarin.

The latrine, which used to be a simple hole in the ground

has been improved!

It now has walls and a seat!

Sunbreaks like this one make for magical morning walking!

People often ask me what the weather will be like in Spring, Summer, or Fall.

If I could predict the weather in Spain, I'd be rich!

But even when it rains, 

the pilgrim is blessed with sunbreaks and rainbows

that make the walking worthwhile.

Just do it!

You will see many interesting sculptures and fountains.

There are some fantastic sculptures and fountains along the Way.

Be sure to keep your eyes open for these.

Sometimes they're so realistic, it's difficult to tell if they're flesh or stone.

Foggy beginnings.

 Walking up and over the Pyrenees

will often take you through clouds.

Once you are above the clouds, 

the sun will shine,

and you will feel like you're staring at islands

when you see the mountaintops through the mist.

Other times, the Way will be flat and dry.

 Some days you will have rain and wind,

and the very next day it can be hot and dry.

Be prepared for both.

My shoes, close to the end of the Camino.

 Patty got this photo of my shoes,

which had been walking for nearly 3 months straight.

They were held together, literally,

with duct tape.

Three cheers for duct tape!

And yes, you can find it in Spain!

You will see many shrines along the Camino. 

 This cross is at the top of the Pyrenees

before your descent into Roncesvalles.

Many pilgrims have added ribbons,

stones, and other mementos to the shrine.

There are still a few wildflowers left for Fall pilgrims to enjoy.

 I particularly enjoyed walking in Spring this past year,

mostly because of the wildflowers.

But even in Fall,

there are flowers to be enjoyed!

Plenty of chances to buy a walking stick or a shell!

 If you don't want to bother with bringing trekking poles on the plane,

you can pick them up quite inexpensively in the outdoor shop

in SJPP. Or, you can buy one of these handmade walking sticks

in almost any village along The Way.

The sleeping places are well-marked.

Don't worry, you'll find the albergues.

The signage is clear.

Expect beauty!

Sometimes, you notice things

that you would have walked right past

a week earlier at home.

Waymarks are easy to find, even in the city.

Waymarking continues,

even in the big cities.

Just keep an eye on the ground,

and on buidings and walls.

Those flechas amarillas are difficult to miss!

One of the "dangerous" dogs on the Camino!   Not!

 I hear a lot of "dangerous dog" stories about the Camino.

This guy is probably closer to what you will encounter.

Little beggar! He sure is cute, huh?

Wine and tapas or pinchos after a long walk - a treat!

 All along the route are bars

where you can find beer, wine, soda, bocadillos, 

and lots of other great treats!

Take a load off!

Rest for a bit and get ready to walk another 4 hours!

Just in case you didn't notice...

 The Basques are a proud people!

They do NOT consider themselves to be Spanish.

They are BASQUE!

Theirs is the oldest language known,

and its roots cannot be traced.

You will see signs in both Basque and Spanish

along the Basque portions of the Camino.

Quiet forest walking is lovely.

 Sometimes you will walk with groups of noisy pilgrims.

Other times, you might walk alone.

The choice is yours.

If you tend to love being solitude,

consider beginning mid-week

and walking "between stages"

instead of following the crowds.

There are many "fixer-uppers" along the Way!

 Buildings like these are not beyond repair.

Somebody could very well buy this,

put a new roof on top,

and slap on some siding.

Old buildings are being reclaimed,

all along The Way.

Follow the flechas (arrows).

 Even in the more remote areas,

don't worry,

the flechas persist!

St. Jean Pied du Port is a beautiful village!

This photo should have been first,

since it is of St. Jean.

But that's the way they loaded

so here it is!

This tiny village is such a gem!

Plan on spending an extra day here

and exploring.

Old trees and old stone walls line much of the Camino.

What I enjoy most about the Camino

are the ancient trees

and the awesome stone walls

that line much of the road.

Who built these walls?

How many generations have they stood?

Who planted these trees?

You will see a castle in Ponferrada.

 The castle in Ponferrada is worth seeing,

although the town itself is disappointing these days,

full of grafitti and trash.

I was sad to see this and wonder

if it's an effect of the poor economy?

Sunrise is a special time for the pilgrim.

 Getting up just before dawn so you can see the sun rise

makes for a happy day!

The rain brings rainbows - and they are beautiful!

 And if there's rain?

Well.. there will be RAINBOWS to lighten your steps!

Gathering for dinner with fellow pilgrims is traditional!

Don't hesitate to gather a group for dinner.

Meeting and getting to know other pilgrims along the way,

and sharing a meal 

is a great tradition!

You will pass each other here and there along the road,

and often, getting into Santiago is like

a big old family reunion!

Shrine to a fallen pilgrim - many of these along the path.

Some pilgrims do not make it to Santiago.

They fall along the way.

Shrines are often kept up and added to

by passing pilgrims;

they are becoming a common sight

as more and more pilgrims walk the Camino.

One of the things I love about spiders...

 In the early morning mist,

the spider's webs are beautiful works of art!

Some folks are familiar with the road... this pilgrim has done some traveling!

 You will meet people on their first pilgrimage,

and you will meet people walking for the 

2d, 3d, or even more times!

Some folks just have itchy feet,

like me!

The Camino is addictive,

and often, pilgrims return to walk it again,

this time as seasoned travelers.
Patty's returning to Spain next year,
aren't you Patty?

O Cebreiro with its thatched roofs and stone walkways.

 Don't pass by O Cebreiro.

It's a beautiful village.

If you're there in the Fall,

you can watch the thatch being made in the field

below the stone wall surrounding the village.

This is how bag transport works.

 Bag transport is one option for the pilgrim.

You leave your pack in the pile,

with envelope containing money attached.

A taxi picks up the pack and delivers it to your destination

It's waiting when you arrive.

What could be easier?

Acebo is a beautiful mountain village above Molinaseca.

 I think I'll stay in Acebo my next Camino.

It's such a pretty mountaintop village!

Cervesa con limon - beer with lemonade - a refreshing drink after a long, hot walk!

Cervesa con limon is one of my favorite drinks

along the Camino.

It is refreshing and really quenches the thirst.

It is a half/half of beer and lemon soda.

In the UK, this is called a Shandy.

Try one!

You find flechas in surprising places!

These are but a few of Patty's photos.

I hope they've given you a better idea 

of what you can expect while walking the Camino.

Unless you are a photography bug like Patty,

I suggest you take a small but good camera,

like the Cannon ELPH - which takes excellent photos

and isn't too expensive.

You never know when a photo-op will appear!

Thanks, Patty, for sharing your photos!

Buen Camino!