Pilgrim Lodgings - What Are They Like? 2022

Hola Peregrinos!

This will be a photo-heavy blog about lodgings on the Camino.  As I explained in the previous post, there is a wide range when it comes to places to sleep. 

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Parochials are run by the Catholic Church. They are almost always "donativo" and you often will sleep on mats on the floor. Please don't let that put you off. The mats are amazingly comfortable; sometimes more comfortable than lumpy beds! And they almost always will feed you dinner and breakfast. 

Remember, "donativo" does NOT mean FREE! 

It means donation, 

and YOUR donation feeds the pilgrims 

that sleep here tomorrow, 

so be generous.  

If they give me only a bed, I usually leave at least €8-10. If they feed me, I leave €15 to €20. 
If you think that is a lot, 

tell me where in YOUR country 

can you get a clean, safe place to sleep 

and a nice dinner for $20?

Some parochial albergues, such as the one in Leon, will have separate rooms for men and women. 
Others will put everyone together.

Municipal albergues are run 

by the local village government. 

The hospitaleros who manage them, 

may or may not have walked the Camino. 

Prices are generally set and there is a wide range.
Men and women are housed together, 

but often have separate bathroom/showers.

Bathrooms CAN be coed.

Associated albergues are sponsored by religious institutions (like confraternaties) or by pilgrim groups from different countries around the world (like the American Pilgrims on the Camino).  One example of an associated albergue is San Nicolás near Itero de la Vega in Stage 15 (there are two different San Nicolas albergues). It is run by an Italian confraternity and is a WONDERFUL experience! Another example is Guacelmo in Rabanal del Camimo in Stage 23.  These can be donativo, but most ask for a nominal fee. They are staffed by volunteers who almost always have walked the Camino themselves. They often have rules other albergues may not have. For example, you are not allowed to stay at Guacelmo if you have booked bag transport. 

You MUST carry your own backpack.

Some, like San Nicolás will serve dinner.

Others, like Guacelmo, offer a kitchen

where you can cook for yourself.

In parochial, municipal, and associated albergues, you will almost never get clean sheets each day, although some have gone to using paper bed covers, which are nice. Most will provide a pillow, but no clean pillowcase. Most will provide blankets, though this is being stopped in some albergues due to the bedbug issue.

Private albergues are owned by private parties. They are (in my opinion) often cleaner, but you will also pay more. Most privates give you linens, including a towel. Most change the sheets and pillowcases each day. Every private I've used supplies blankets. Most are very clean and upscale as they are in competition with other privates in the area and depend on good reviews. 

These albergues may have one bed or may have 100 beds. The beds may be split up into separate rooms, 

or they may all be in one room. 

Men and women usually have separate shared bathrooms.

Many albergues listed above will have a common space kitchen, or at least a place to boil water (microwave). Most with a kitchen will provide cutlery, cooking pots, refrigerator, etc.  Some, especially in Galicia, will have a beautiful kitchen with not one pot or plate or piece of silverware. I asked about this once, and was told that pilgrims stole it all, and they refused to replace it. 

Hostels exist all along the route. 

A hostel might have several beds in one room 

for one price (€10+) 

or they may offer a few private rooms 

for singles or dobles (€20+). 

Hostels often have a common kitchen. 

The private rooms almost always include clean linens. 

The dorm rooms may not - just ask.  

The price may or may not include breakfast next morning. 

Casa Rurals are all along the route. 

These are regular houses. 

Sometimes the host family lives in them. 

Sometimes not. 

For me, these are a treat that I really enjoy.  

Prices for a room usually start around €30 for a single 

and go up, depending on how fancy the place is. 

You often have use of the kitchen.

Apartamentos Touristicos are apartments that are rented for one or more nights. This can really be a value if you're traveling in a group. I usually can expect to pay €100 for an apartment that will sleep up to 8 people, depending on if they need twin beds or not. 

Hotels are just that - hotels. 

DOBLE vs. MATRIMONIAL.  

It's important to know, if you are booking lodging ahead for two pilgrims who are not related, 

that a DOBLE is often what we would call 

a single double bed in the USA.  

It is one bed meant for 2 people to sleep in.  

If you need TWO beds, 

you must be sure to ask for "dos camas individuales." 

A single double bed is also referred to as a "matrimonial." A bunkbed is called a "litera."

Booking ahead.  

Parochials and Municipals generally will NOT allow you to book ahead. 

First come, first serve is the way they operate.  

However, privates, hostels, casa rurals, apartments, and hotels will all allow you to book ahead. 

In the last year or so, 

more and more albergues are allowing pilgrims

to book ahead.

PASSPORTS.  

Do not worry if the hostelier asks you 

to surrender your passport. 

Spanish law requires them to record your information

 and it is common, especially if they are busy,

for them to take your passport when you check in. 

They will return it either that night or in the morning. 

 Nobody wants to keep your passport. 

If you have questions or comments, 

please leave them at the bottom of the blog 

or go to my Facebook page, Camino Santiago Planning. 

Next, I'll post some photos for you, 

so you can get an idea of what to expect.  

These will be in no particular order.  

You should be able to click on the photos 

to make them larger. 

Private - Santiago

Roncesvalles - Old Albergue

Zubiri Municipal

Trinidad de Arre

Trinidad de Arre has a nice sala

Trinidad de Arre dorm

Two-bed albergue at Uterga - closed now  :(

Gite in SJPP 

Dinner with Priest at Parochial in Viana

Sahagun Albergue has little cubbies

Old Burgos Albergue

Casa Morgade Private

Not my photo - but this is what it's like!  lol!

Private doble twin

My breakfast in bed at the Parador in Sto. Domingo del Calzada!

Private in Espinoza

Family Style Dinner at San Anton

Guillena Albergue - VDLP

Castilblanco - VDLP

Sleeping out - VDLP

Sometimes a wee bathtub makes a Private worth the cash!

Albergue Refugio de Jesus - Vilar de Mazariffe

Sleeping outside at Municipal in Molinaseca b/c I found bedbugs inside!

Nice kitchen at Guacelmo in Rabanal del Camino

Manjarin - one of my favorites!

Sometimes a private is just what the doctor ordered - I was sick 

Quad room at Casa Morgade

Cacabelos Municipal - 2 beds to a room - but check for bedbugs and don't be afraid to ask for a different room if you find them! 

VERY crowded Municipal at Sarria - so many other great places to stay there

Nice new kitchen in Portomarin Municipal

El Real de la Jara Municipal - VDLP - cool little hobbit house!

Obanos

Obanos - never again - this was the rudest damned guy 

Some places just leave a bad taste in your mouth, and this place at Obanos was one of them. The hospitalero, a priest, was mean as a snake. The pilgrims came into the place in FREEZING wind, and he refused to issue blankets. He told us we should have a sleeping bag. Well, we DID, but we were frozen to the bone. He finally, after about 20 people begged, gave us blankets, but begrudgingly and with nasty looks. When I tried to use the kitchen to heat water for cocoa, he followed me in and GLARED at me as though I was going to steal something. I believe this was the worst night I've ever spent on the Camino and I will never darken this door again. Perhaps he was just having an off day, but I cannot, in good conscience, recommend this place.

Here is a photo of "Mr. Friendly."

The next 3 photos are of an albergue 

I passed after leaving Obanos. 

I believe it is of Albergue Lur Gorri, 

a private albergue in Maneru. 

I will stay here sometime as it looks wonderful!

Another wonderful family style dinner at Viana Parochial

Privacy Screen at Casa de la Abuela in Los Arcos

Triple room at Convent in Sto. Domingo del Calzada

Wonderful Albergue Peregrino in Navarette

San Nicholas - I love this place!

San Nicholas - Confraternity member serving pilgrims

We had a wonderful dinner by candlelight in 2009

After dinner, entertainment - only 12 beds so you must arrive early

La Escuela Albergue - Laguna de Castilla

Below is what you can expect in a Parochial Refuge 

where you sleep on  mats on the floor. 

This would be like the one in Grañon or Viana. 

This is not my photo. I nabbed it from the internet.

 I suggest you give these places a try. 

They can be the sweetest experiences on the Camino:

Grañon

Below are some photos of the range 

of what you can expect in a private room:

Pension Sarasate - Pamplona

Pension Arca Piño - Pedrouzo

San Martin Pinario - Santiago - pilgrim room

Albergue Piedra in Villafranca - private room

Casa Calleja in Castañeda

Apartamentos Touristicos Guillermo - Palas de Rei

Apartamentos Andia in Estella -

Most apartment will have a washing machine.
Most will have a kitchen.

So there you go. 

Now you should have a good idea of what to expect.

Feel free to ask questions.

Buen Camino!

Annie

For information on walking with Annie
and a small group
see my website at :

Anniewalkers Camino

Donde Dormir? Where Will You Sleep?

When planning your budget you need to consider what type of lodging you require. Will you stay in parochials, which are almost always donativo? Will you stay in municipals, which are albergues run by the village? Will you stay in private albergues, which are a bit more upscale but where you'll still be sharing space with other pilgrims? Or will you book private lodging? Here is a link to a blog post telling you a bit about each:

https://caminosantiago2.blogspot.com/2018/04/donde-dormir-where-will-you-sleep.html

About Gronze.com

Which Camino route will you walk?

How will you find information on each?

One of my favorite websites for planning is gronze.com.

Type gronze.com into your computer. On the opening page you will see many of the more popular Camino routes posted. Click on the one you are interested in.

Along the top, next to the web address Gronze.com you will see the word "Roads." Click on that and scroll to the bottom and it will take you to the interactive map shown at the top of this blog post. You can also reach that map by clicking "Other Ways" at the bottom right of this screen.

When you open the route that interests you, it will show you a plethora of information. The first thing you will see is a short description of the route and a map of the route. Here, I clicked on the Primitivo:

Below that, you will see a list of the stages, including any variations. Here, you can see you begin the Primitivo in Oviedo, and once you reach Borres, you have two options for walking. You can walk via Hospitals or you can walk via Pola de Aliande.

Open the link for walking via Hospitals 

and you see the map below.

First, a bit about the route which passes by several old pilgrim hospitals. This variant is 4.5 k shorter than the alternative, but harder and without services. 

(Red dots indicate possible services)

On the other hand, it is one of the stages with the most scenic beauty of all the Caminos!

You can see this stage is 24.1 km.

It will take a person in good shape about 6.5 hours to walk.

It is a 4 star difficulty stage and the scenery is 5 stars

Your other option is to walk the variation that goes through Polo de Allande. You can see this stage is 28.6 k, and will take 7.45 hours to walk if you are in good shape. It also has a 4 star difficulty and great scenery. The red dots show where there may be services available.

If you click on the option "See stage profile" you will get a profile map, complete with heights listed in meters along the right edge:

Beneath these maps, you will find a list of the villages and services. If you have a Mac, you can choose to see information in English. But you may want to switch back to Spanish, as it will translate each village name into English and that can be confusing. For instance, the village Borres translates to "Delete" in English.

On my MacBook Air, 

this option shows up in the right hand corner...

At any rate, below the map, 

you will see a list of villages and services. 

Click on one to find more information about it.

The green/red bar shows reviews. 

Green are positive. 

Red are negative. 

The lowest price is listed to the right.

Here I have clicked on the 

Albergue de peregrinos Santa Maria.

It shows you the address, gives you a telephone number, gives you a little map. The basic data section says this IS exclusively for pilgrims. They will NOT take reservations so you must just show up. It is open all year.

Below that you can see the beds are in a shared dorm and are 5 euros each. There are 20 beds in one big room. There is a photo of the facility. Sometimes, you can click on the photos to see more that pilgrims have posted. Often you can see photos of the inside as well.

There are also feedback comments from people who have stayed.  You will need to create an account and log in to see those. They are worth reading, but just remember,

some people are never pleased, and unless the place is REALLY bad, you may not have other options.

Also remember, many of these lodgings are remote,

and quite inexpensive. In many cases the PILGRIMS are the ones who should be picking up a broom/mop or rag and cleaning up after themselves,

leaving the place nice for the next pilgrims.

That is part of the responsibility of being a pilgrim.

A pilgrim is grateful for a roof over his/her head,

and a place out of the weather.

A tourist demands and in my opinion,

should pay for a hotel instead of taking up space.

I hope this little tutorial has made your planning easier.

Please feel free to ask questions if you have them.

You can find me on Facebook as AnnieSantiago.

I have a Facebook Camino Planning page at this address: https://www.facebook.com/groups/1790533477968666

This blogspot account often fails to notify me of comments so I apologize if I do not respond here in a timely manner..

Good luck planning and

Buen Camino!

Annie

Getting to SJPP

 There are several ways to get to SJPP.

You can fly into Paris and take a train to Bayonne, then another train to SJPP.

You can fly into Madrid and catch a bus directly to SJPP during the Pilgrim Season. Buses will be just outside Terminal 4. 

My favorite is to fly into Madrid, then bus or fly to Pamplona. (There are buses that you can catch literally right outside Terminal 4 in Madrid that will take you to Pamplona). 

Spend a couple of days in Pamplona adjusting to the time change and seeing the city. Then nab an inexpensive bus to SJPP.  This way, when the rest of the world is stopping in Pamplona on the way back through, you've already seen it and you can begin stopping "between" the Brierley stages, and hopefully avoid full albergues. It's worked for me on over 20 Caminos and I stick by this plan.

Bus information changes year to year. 

Check with Annie or check on the Camino Forum run by Ivar for updated info on bus schedules. 

Where to Begin - St. Jean Pied de Port

 

In the last several years, St. Jean Pied de Port has become "the place to start" for many pilgrims. For some, it is because they want to walk over the Pyrenees. The truth is, you are only walking over a couple of hills in the Pyrenees, but it CAN be a gorgeous walk! It is a difficult one, however and the decision to walk from SJPP should not be taken lightly.

Brierley lists the first stage of the Camino as beginning in SJPP and ending in Roncesvalles. This is how I walked it on my first Camino. I was 16 years younger and it almost ruined me. 

I had booked lodging at Orisson, having heard it was a good idea to break that first stage up into two days if you weren't in prime condition. The owner of the gite where we stayed in SJPP insisted that we should walk all the way to Roncesvalles. "You can do it!" he said, "It's easy!" he said.  So I cancelled our reservations at Orisson and soon realized I had made a mistake. 

I was younger and in good shape, and that section was harder than anything I could have imagined. I limped into Roncesvalles in pain, crying the entire way down the hillside, cursing that hospitalero! I was carrying my heavy pack. My feet were blistered. My muscles were cramping. I wasn't sure I would make it. Soon after starting down the mountain, a bus stopped at the top and let a group of tourigrinos out. They were teenagers. They ran down the hill, laughing and giggling, right past me. No backpacks. No pain. "Cheaters!" I thought, and I felt so angry.

Then one young woman stopped when she saw my tears. She asked if I was ok and offered me a chocolate bar. I just started bawling!  But that chocolate bar and her kindness got me down the mountain into Roncesvalles, where Joe was patiently waiting.  

This was the OLD albergue where we stayed. The bunkbeds were pushed tightly together - I was sleeping (literally) next to a strange man. The ladders were round metal bars. That night when I got out of bed to use the toilet, I screamed when my feet hit those bars. My feet were SO bruised from the walk. 

Since then, I have walked that section more times than I can count, and I ALWAYS break it up into two stages. 

So that is my suggestion to you, unless you are in absolutely prime shape. Yes, it's only 8 kilometers to Orisson, but it's the 8 kilometers from HELL! And if you don't want to ruin yourself for the rest of your Camino, just stop at Orisson or Borda and rest, then continue on the next day.

You will need to make reservations for SJPP.  You can book directly or you can find email info on gronze.com. You can also find information on Booking.com for both gite beds and private rooms. By the way, the lodgings are called gites (jeets) in France and albergues (al-bear-gays) in Spain.

Refuge Orisson

For Refuge Orisson, you will need to email them directly. They will open mid December for reservations and you can find their website here: https://refuge-orisson.com/en/

About 2 kilometers past Orisson, on the left, you will find Gite Borda. The owner, Laurent, has a Facebook page where you can request information and book beds. 

The differences between the two - Orisson has bunkbeds in a common space. They also have overflow, so sometimes you will have to walk back DOWN the mountain you have just walked up. Yikes!

Gite Borda

Gite Borda has little cubbies with beds in each, so you have a bit of privacy. Both serve a family style dinner. Laurent is a wonderful host who loves what he does. He is full of information for you. 

Both have high ratings. Prices change each year so you will have to check those out yourself. 

Another option if both of those are full is to book TWO nights in SJPP.  The first morning you will walk up to Orisson, then take the shuttle run by Express Bouricott back down about 2 pm. Have lunch or a beer/wine and watch the pilgrims trudge by while you wait.  Spend a second night in SJPP and take the shuttle back UP to Orisson in the morning and continue on to Roncesvalles. 

If you decide to walk the entire stage, be forewarned. It is probably the most difficult day of the entire Camino, in my opinion. Get up and out early - take breaks every couple of hours - and be sure you have a bed reserved ahead.

If you are interested in the history of St. Jean Pied de Port, see this older blog post. It is heavy with photos of the route from SJPP to Roncesvalles. Scroll down to find the section on history. 

https://caminosantiago2.blogspot.com/2015/11/starting-st-jean-pied-de-port.html

Where To Begin - Roncesvalles

If you are walking the entire route of the Camino Frances, the traditional place to begin is Roncesvalles, Spain.

Roncesvalles is an autonomous community of northern Spain and is in Navarra province. It lies 3,220 feet above sea level and is northeast of Pamplona. Nestled in this "Valley of Thorns" in the foothills of the Pyrenees is an Augustinian monastery. Traditionally, the hospital at Roncesvalles received “pilgrims and otherswho might wish to lodge at the peak near the chapel of Charlemagne." The papacy assumed responsibility for the maintenance and running of the hospital.

The monastery at Roncesvalles has always been of major importance to the Camino. It was once one of the wealthiest on the entire route and was famous for the treatment which pilgrims received here. A 12th century poem sings the praises of the monastery´s legendary hospitality:

"The door lies open to all, to sick and strong,

Not only to Catholics but to pagans too

Jews, heretics,

idlers, vagabonds,

In short, to good and bad, sacred and profane."

Monastery records from as late as the 17th century speak
of up to 25,000 meals being served to hungry pilgrims
in a year´s time, with the number reaching as high as 30,000 in some years.

The numbers of pilgrims passing through Roncesvalles currently rivals that of the pilgrimage´s original golden age. By July 2011, a Holy Year, over 1000 pilgrims per day received a Compostela, and many passed through the villageon their way to Santiago de Compostela.

In 1132, the hospital was transferred to the spot where it stands today.
In 1984, the chapter passed to the control of the archbishop of the city.

In the 15th century the hospital was temporarily closed. Two fires in 1445 and 1468 caused great devastation, but only briefly interrupted the work of the hospital.

The collegiate church was consecrated in 1219. It is considered to be one of the earliest examples of Gothic architecture in Spain. Fires, a constant hazard in the medieval era reduced much of the collegiate church to ashes. It was lovingly and painstakingly restored in 1940.

The Colegiata Real or Sala Capitular (chapter house), has served pilgrims down through the centuries. It is also known as La Preciosa (“the beautiful”).

In 1600 the cloister was demolished by a severe fall of snow. The poor standard of the reconstruction offended many artistic and religious sensibilities.

The Capilla de Sancti Spiritus or Silo de Carlomagno (XII century)
is built over the graves of pilgrims who only made it this far. The 13th century Capilla de Santiago is much admiredfor its Romansque-Gothic architectural style. The bell is known for guiding pilgrims in from the Pyrenees snow.

The Virgin of Roncesvalles (aka the Virgin of Orisson) celebrates her feast dayon the 8th of September, Mary's nativity. But it is in Spring when most of the towns and the valleys around make their pilgrimage
to the Virgin of the Pyrenees.



From the Roncesvalles webpage:

Of all the pilgrimages to the Virgin of Roncesvalles, 

the one of Arce Valley and the one of Oroz- Betelu, 

which are done together, are the most constant in history. 

It has been celebrated since the 16th century,

 although it must have been celebrated even before then. 

The pilgrims set off from 2 places: 

from Oroz Betelu at 6 am in the morning and from Arrieta at 7 am. 

The pilgrims from Azparren, Olaldea, 

Gorraiz and Artozqui go in the first procession, 

and those from Lusarreta, Saragüeta, Urdíroz, Uriz, Muniáin, 

Arrieta, Villanueva, Imizcoz, Espoz and Lacave go in the second.

Both reach the crossroad and continue,

each town singing its songs and praying the Rosary.

The parish crosses close each walk

and precede the mayor of the town,

who walks with his staff of office.

The pilgrims walk in two rows,

with the crosses on their backs

and holding them by the short side, with lifted arms.

When the Collegiate is sighted, and the Rosary is finished,

people start singing the litanies.

The "ora pro nobis" is something that has been repeated

during many centuries in the same place,

and it represents a clamour for forgiveness, happiness,

praise and compliments to the Mother.

The chapter welcomes the pilgrims, led by the prior,

and all of them enter the church to celebrate a large mass,

to confess, and offer their presents to the Virgin.

The meal begins after the mass, 

with the traditional "caldico" at the pilgrims' hostel.

In the towns, people eat "perretxicos"

(a kind of mushroom),

trout, lamb, and "cuajada,"

a type of curdled cheese

When the meal is over, and it is getting dark, 

in the Arce Valley and in Oroz Betelu, historic songs are sung,

whose melodies are used to conclude the day of celebration.

After this celebration, the pilgrims return home with renewed hopes.

In the best seller "Iberia," James Michener speaks of going on a picnic in Roncesvalles.

“The success of our picnic was assured by the fine tins Potter had brought and by the rare site I had selected. But insurance was taken out when Bob Daley, fearing that we didn’t have enough food, stopped in the town of Espinal, and while we studied the fine modernistic church quite radical in its architecture, he bought an extra loaf of bread and in doing so acquired a culinary masterpiece; it was round and flat, about the size of a large chair cushion and not more than 2 inches thick, so that it was practically all crust and better crust was never baked.”

He continues, “I had in mind a spot well beyond the monastery of Roncesvalles. A spot where a small stream came out of a woods, but …she caught sight of a meadow far below the road where 7 rivulets converged, their banks lined with moss-covered trees. We lugged out tins and bottles and Bob Daley’s marvelous chunk of bread down to the 7 streams and there in a glade so quiet, so softly green that it seemed as if defeated knights might have slept in it the evening before, we spread our blankets and prepared the meal.”

The albergue at Roncesvalles was HUGE and COL

when I first visited in 2006

There were over 100 beds in one giant hall.

It was quite an experience

and for a first time pilgrim, it was very exciting!

So many people with the same goal

crammed into such a small space;

some too excited to sleep, others too exhausted to speak.

Old Albergue

Today the albergue has been completely remodeled,

and it is much more comfortable 

with more privacy.

New Albergue

If you don't care to sleep in the albergue, there are hotels where you can make private reservations; Casa de Beneficiados, La Posada de Roncesvalles, Hotel Roncesvalles, and Casa Sabina. 

Wherever you decide to sleep, 

be sure and make your dinner reservations

when you arrive in Roncesvalles.

The local trout is not to be missed!

It is usually served with pasta or ensalada, bread, and wine.

After you shower and do your laundry,

spend some time taking care of your feet.

A nice foot rub will make them happy.

And don't jump out of bed too fast in the morning,

for they may not hold you

without a little encouragement.

It has been a long hard climb

and they have the right to be stiff and sore.

Rest assured,

from here forward, the Way is easier.

***

If you choose to begin your Camino in Roncesvalles,

I suggest the best way to get there is to fly into Pamplona. From Pamplona, during the Pilgrim Season, there are inexpensive buses to Roncesvalles that run each day. 

I believe the bus line is Artieda.

I believe Alsa also runs during the Pilgrim Season.

Off season, you can book a taxi with Caminofacil 

or other taxi companies.

You might also share a ride with BlaBlaCar.

Next, we'll look at starting in St. Jean Pied de Port.

Until then,

Buen Camino!

Annie

So You Want to Go on Camino?

You've heard all about the Camino Santiago and now you've decided you want to go walk across Spain. You need to plan. But where do you start? You start by asking yourself some questions: 

WHY are you walking?

How many days do you have to walk? 

How much can you afford to spend? 

Where will you begin your walk? 

Where will you fly FROM?

Will you walk alone? 

Will you require private lodging or are you happy to stay in albergues? 

Will you picnic or will you eat in restaurants? 

What equipment do you already have and what will you need? 

What time of year will you walk?

Is it important that you walk every step or are you open to alternative transportation when necessary?

 

Let's look at some of these questions in depth.

WHY ARE YOU WALKING?

Originally, the Camino de Santiago is a Catholic pilgrimage. If a person walks the last 100 kilometers into Santiago de Compostela, they could get a certificate from the Church called a Compostela. It was a way of gaining forgiveness of sins and proving they had made the pilgrimage. 

Today, people walk for many reasons. Some walk for forgiveness of sins. Some walk to pray for others. For some it is a religious or spiritual journey. For others, a test of endurance.  Some want to experience the culture and food of Spain. And others just want to put it on their checklist of "things I did."

It is important for you to know WHY you are walking. If the Compostela is important to you, you must register your walk as "religious" or "spiritual" instead of secular, plus you must walk every step of the last 100 kilometers into Santiago de Compostela. If it is NOT important for you to have the Compostela, you can get a very beautiful Walking Certificate at the Pilgrim's Office in Santiago. If the Compostela is not important to you, it's also fine to bus or taxi portions of the last 100 kilometers.

Why do YOU want to walk?

WHICH ROUTE WILL YOU WALK?

Do you want to walk the original Camino Frances? Or would you rather walk a quieter route like the Northern, the Aragones, the Madrid, or even from Lourdes? There is also the route from Malaga, the route from Montserrat, the route from Amsterdam, and many other routes from pretty much anyone's front door!

HOW MANY DAYS DO YOU HAVE?

To walk the entire Camino Frances will take you somewhere between 30 and 45 days, depending on how fast you walk. Brierley lists 33 stages in his guidebook. But some of those can be too long for many walkers. You may want to add on extra days for illness, or for simply touristing in the larger cities. Personally, I think 6 weeks makes a nice comfortable Camino.

WHERE WILL YOU BEGIN?    

Of course, your Camino begins the minute you walk out of your front door. But once you arrive in Europe, where will you begin? Will you start in Lourdes, France? Will you start in St. Jean Pied de Port? In Roncesvalles? In Pamplona? In Sevilla if you are walking the Via de la Plata? 

By knowing where you will begin your Camino, you can then decide where to fly into. If you are beginning your walk in St. Jean Pied de Port, you can either fly into Madrid (my personal favorite) or you can fly into Paris and take a train to SJPP. 

WILL YOU WALK ALONE?

Do you need some alone time? Or do you prefer to walk with a group? Do you speak any Spanish? Does it frighten you to be in a country where you do not know the language or are you up for the challenge?

HOW ABOUT LODGING?

Do you snore? Are you a light sleeper? You may want to book private rooms. Are you on a tight budget? Albergues may be your choice, though many still do not take reservations. Can you be flexible? Or are you more comfortable with a set schedule?

WILL YOU PICNIC?

Are you willing to picnic to save cash? Or will you be eating in restaurants? This can mean a wide range in your budget. 

WHAT EQUIPMENT DO YOU ALREADY HAVE?

WHAT WILL YOU NEED TO BUY?

In my opinion, your two most important items are your SHOES and your BACKPACK.  Those will make or break your Camino. I will talk about both in other posts. You MUST have shoes that have a deep, wide toebox and a narrow heel or you will get blisters. I'm not fond of boots, but if you've walked/hiked in them for years, they may work for you. A well-fitting backpack is essential, no matter what time of year you are going. We will also discuss packs in a different post. ARE  However, except for these two items, you honestly can go with whatever you already have in your closet. There is absolutely no need at all to purchase special "gear" for the Camino. If you have good shoes and a good backpack, the rest is easy.

WHAT TIME OF YEAR WILL YOU WALK?

A Summer Camino means less weight to carry but it also means big crowds. A Winter Camino means fewer people, but more planning and heavier gear. Both Spring and Autumn will have a mixture of rain and sunshine. 

In addition to these questions, there are others. Do you have Travel Insurance? What will happen if you get sick on the Camino. What would happen if, God forbid, you DIED on the Camino? How would your family get your remains home? What if you broke a leg or arm? 

All of these questions are necessary to really think through before you begin your physical planning. So I advise you to take some time and figure out the answers before you buy a ticket.

See you on the trail!

Annie

Rendering Lard

In my community we have
a "Buy Nothing" group on Facebook.

Day before yesterday I happened to find
a post for free hog fat.

A man had ordered half a hog
and didn't want the fat

so he posted it
on Facebook's Buy Nothing group.

Turns out he was just around the corner
from my house,

so I buzzed over.

He gave me several packages of back fat 

and leaf fat.

I spent a couple of hours yesterday 

rendering the back fat.

Two packages of fat - one back fat and one leaf fat.

This is back fat. 

Back fat is good for cooking eggs, meat, especially on cast iron. 

It's also great for making soap.

This is "leaf fat" and it comes off the kidneys.

Leaf fat makes a pretty white lard and it's good for pastries.

First thing I did was go wash all of my equipment.

I'm using a hand meat grinder.

Grinding the fat into smaller pieces 

means you can get more lard out of the fat. 

Start melting the fat on very low heat. 

I ended up with 4 full pints of lard, 

plus some in my bacon fat container.

I also ended up with a pint of "cracklings" 

which is the cooked portions of meat scraps.

Those are great in scrambled eggs instead of bacon

or put on top of casseroles.

Yum!

This morning, all my lard is finished.

Today I'm going to do the leaf lard.

It will be interesting to see if it's more white.

Stay tuned.

Eggs, Eggs, Eggs!!

 My son and I invested in a Harvest Rite Freeze Dryer a few months ago so while they're at a conference in Las Vegas, I decided to try it out and freeze dry some eggs.

I started with 5 dozen eggs. I decided to put 15 eggs in each tray.

I beat the eggs up. I did not freeze them ahead of time. The machine will do that. My understanding is these will rehydrate just like raw fresh eggs, which makes them perfect for van trips and camping. They also will last up to 30 years if I seal them correctly.

I forgot to take a photo of me filling the trays, but here they are in the machine.  I have no idea how long this will take but I imagine it will be around 24 hours. I'll continue when they're done.

This machine makes it so easy...

My eggs finished and they turned out GREAT!

So light and fluffy!

They feel like a sheet of REALLY featherweight styrofoam:

And when you crumble the sheets, which is easy,

they look like this:

The photo above isn't mine. 

I forgot to take a photo of them when they were being crumbled.

But they look just exactly like this.

I powdered them just using my hands,

and vacuum packed them into pint jars.

There will be about 8 eggs per jar,

and 2 tablespoons should equal one egg.

All you have to do to reconstitute these 

is add a bit of cold water,

then use them to cook like you would a fresh egg.

I plan on using them for camping,

and vanning,

making scrambled eggs!

I have diced ham in the freeze-dryer now,

along with some corn,

and some shredded mozarella.

Hoping to get another 5 dozen eggs done

before my son gets home.

Then maybe some beef stew

and spaghetti.

These will be GREAT in the van!

YAY!

PS:  The shells aren't wasted.

I put them in the microwave, then powdered them

to spread in my garden boxes!

Calcium!