A few photos before I write...
As you are walking through Cacabelos, watch to your left for this mural. Inside this little glass-enclosed mall you will find the BEST hamburguesas on the Camino!
If you're interested in art at all, whether Christian or pagan, don't hesitate to stop and peek inside every church along the way! There are some awesome things to see there.
I love these older structures
where you can see how these houses were originally built.
Storks will become a familiar site to you along the Camino.
Just another reason I love walking in Spring... wildflowers!
A different type of horreo,
which is a little house built to store corn.
These are protected by the government in Spain
and cannot be torn down.
Watch for this cool little mural in Cacabelos.
From Molinaseca, I almost always take the city bus to Ponferrada, as I don't care for the walking in this section. To me, it's not very pretty, and I prefer to begin in Ponferrada, where I usually grab breakfast, and continue my Camino.
Ponferrada (one of the not so pretty towns to me), is a large city covered in graffiti. It was already an ancient settlement when the Romans appropriated it. The iron bridge, constructed for pilgrims in 1082, gave it the name Pons Ferrata (Iron Bridge.) . Here, you can see the great medieval castle that has in recent years been reconstructed. There is a small Museu del Bierzo here, installed in the former jail, dealing with prehistory as well as explaining Roman mining operations and linen-making.
There are about 8 little villages between Ponferrada and Villafranca del Bierzo, so you'll find plenty of opportunity for food and drink along this section.
This stage is pretty much flat walking until you get within 2-3 kilometers of Villafranca, when you will begin to climb.
The villages you pass are:
Compostilla, an ancient town perched over the river. It belongs to the ENDESA Company, a large coal-processing concern. It is laid out in squares and has shady streets and pretty gardens.
Columbrianos. This is one of the oldest towns in the Bierzo.
Camponaraya. Site of a major wine cooperative. A 2k detour allows you a visit to the monastery of Carracedo. I've never done this, but may someday.
Magaz. In medieval times there was a hospice here.
Cacabelos. A great place to stop for lunch or coffee, this town has been here since the 10th century. It was destroyed by an early 12th century earthquake and rebuilt in 1108. It is a typical long, thin Road town. In medieval times it supported 6 hospices. The Plaza San Lázaro, with its fountain, was formerly outside the walls and the site of a leprosarium. At the entrance to Cacabelos is a private anthropological museum. It's worth stopping in every tiny church you see on the Camino. They are almost always full of art and other surprises!
Just before the bridge at the exit from town on the right are an old mill and an ancient olive press. If you are finished walking for the day, this is the last option to hire a taxi to Villafranca del Bierzo.
Pieros. The church here was consecrated in 1086. There was a hospice and leper's hospice here, administered by the Templars, documented in the 15th century. Some years there is a small cafe across the road on the left, just past Pieros. But I wouldn't count on it. If you're hungry, better to either picnic or eat in Cacabelos.
From Pieros there are three possibilities to get to Villafranca. The safest are the two regular Camino trails. These wind to your right, through beautiful countryside, and are quite easy, gently climbing slowly into Villafranca del Bierzo. The third is simply to follow highway, cutting kilometers off the walk, but can feel dangerous with traffic. Be sure to FACE the traffic if you take this route.
Villafranca del Bierzo has been an important communication center since antiquity. It lies at the confluence of the Burbia and Valcarce Rivers at the west end of the rich Bierzo basin, and at the foot of the narrow valley leading up to the Cebreiro Pass. A document dated 943 calls the village Villafranca ("Foreigners' town") . By mid 12th century, half the inhabitants were foreign: French, Italian, German, Catalán, Jewish, Flemish, Portuguese, and Scandinavian.
Plague decimated the town in 1589. Floods destroyed much along the river in 1715. The French destroyed the city in 1808. The English rampaged the village until General John Moore stopped the carnage by having the leaders shot.
The village retains much of its late medieval and Renaissance atmosphere. Villafranca is one of my favorite places on the Camino and is full of interesting monuments and buildings. See Gitlitz' book for details.
We generally stay at the far end of the village, either in a sweet albergue built into the rock, or in a newer guest house, depending on vacancy. Even though it's more rustic, I prefer the albergue, so we'll see if I can get rooms there. If we stay at the albergue, you will share showers and bathrooms with other pilgrims, even if you've booked a private room. No matter where we stay, you can have breakfast in the morning at the albergue before we leave for our taxi trip to O Cebreiro, or you can wait until we arrive in O Cebreiro, or you can do BOTH!
But wherever you sleep - please be on time for the taxi ride or you'll be on your own!
Love,
Annie
