The Movie "The Way"

Joe sent me a note today saying 
2021 is the 10 year anniversary 
of the movie The Way coming out. 

Ten years since Joe and I, 

while waiting one rainy afternoon,

with maybe only 3 other pilgrims

 in the Pilgrim office in Santiago, 

were invited to be extras in the film. 

We had days to spare. 

Nothing else to do.

We looked at each other and said, "Why not?!"

Ten years. 

It has just flown by, 

but my, what changes we have seen!

This movie did so much 

to popularize the Camino.

Before it, 

who had heard of 

the Camino de Santiago,

unless they were Catholic?

Joe knew of it,

but he had a Jesuit education.

He is the one who told me about it,

when my specialist prescribed

long-distance walking

for my MCS.

While on the Camino,

we had seen the crew filming, 

as we walked through Torres del Rio. 

We were so weary from walking,

we didn't ask questions.

And now, here we were...

extras in a movie 

with Martin Sheen and Emelio Estevez!

I remember HOURS in the drizzle 

working on scenes 

of the trio walking up the Cathedral steps.

The crew provided our lunch,

and had us sign releases.

We were promised €2 as pay.

I still have not received my check!

Soon we moved into the Cathedral 

and spent more time 

in the swinging botafumeiro scene. 

There were times the cameras 

were right in our faces.

We had not been told the story 

and so didn't know 

until we SAW the movie 

why Emelio Estevez was dressed as a priest 

swinging the censor! 

When the movie came out,

we watched it excitedly, 

hoping to see ourselves. 

But... where were we? 

We played it again, 

really squinting during the scenes 

we knew we were in. 

Where were we?

Then we finally played it frame by frame 

:::laughing:: 

and there was tall Joe 

in his black beret

with me hidden behind him, 

just a piece of me sticking out! 

Hahaha!

So much for being famous! 

Well, it was fun anyway. 

Martin Sheen 

was a lovely open and friendly man.

He introduced us to his son,
also very gracious
and down to earth. 

Martin spent a LOT of time signing autographs

and talking to people. 

Emelio would have to say, 

"Dad! Time to WORK!" 

There are some days, I admit, 

I wish they'd never made the movie. 

When I see blocks and blocks of people

in line for the Compostela, for instance.

When I run into people who really are not there

 for a spiritual experience, 

but just because it's a fad,

or a friend told them

it was a cheap vacation. 

When I run into people 

who are unkind, un-pilgrim-like, 

un-(fill in the blank) in my judgmental mind. 

I often feel frustrated 

when someone comes out 

with yet ANOTHER book,

or ANOTHER film, 

or ANOTHER You Tube video. 

Some days I feel I'm drowning 

in Camino minutia. 

I want to scream "STOP!!!" 

I think, 

"Wouldn't it be nice if we could return 

to the quiet days of the Camino? 

When you met only 10 pilgrims all day? 

When you cooked together, ate together, 

remembered each other's faces and names? 

When we were all there for the magic? 

For the spiritual experience 

of change or of finding answers?" 

And then I remember, 

the Camino still holds magic,

enough magic for all who walk it.

It changes even those 

who do not go there seeking change. 

You cannot walk it without changing.

It's impossible.

I know I change each time I walk it.

I like to think I get better

at being human.

I see parts of my self I need to correct.

I feel feelings I need to deal with.

I find ways I can improve.

I learn more and more about myself 

and my relationship with others.

For this reason, I continue to take small groups

of people who aren't quite ready
for whatever reason

to walk on their own.

For this reason,

I've devoted much of my time 

to helping people on 

The Way,

on THEIR Way.

So thank you Martin Sheen and Emelio Estevez

for bringing The Way to the people.

What a difference that one movie 

has made 

for all of those 

tiny villages in Spain

and for so many pilgrims,

past, present, and future!

Ten years ago
we were 5 pilgrims
waiting to get our Compostela.
Who could have predicted 

there would be 1450 pilgrims

waiting in blocks-long lines

to get their Compostela

just 10 short years later.

Who  knew!?

Buen Camino!

Annie

Pilgrims waiting for their Compostela, September 2019
Photo by Francesco Cocco

PS:
Here is some background on the movie
from Wiki
that Joe just sent me.

What are Kilometers?

If you are "math-minded" 

this photo may help you.

Unfortunately, I am NOT "math-minded" 

and I can't remember this to save my life!

So if you are like me,

my suggestion is this,

begin THINKING in kilometers.

now, before you get to Europe.

How?

During training, download an app

that allows you to use kilometers.

Your Fitbit allows you to make that distinction.

I use my Fitbit but the electromagnetic waves

make my arm hurt (yeah, I'm weird)

so usually, I use the app called

MAP MY WALK

which is free,

on my iPhone.

I go to settings,

and set the counter to kilometers 

instead of miles.

A little voice comes on and tells me

each time I walk another kilometer 

and how long it's taken me.

This is helpful when trying to judge

how long it will take you to walk a stage,

like one of 24 kilometers, for instance.

I know it takes me 12 minutes 

to walk one kilometer,

so if I multiply 24 by 12,

that will give me 288 minutes.

Divide that by 60 (minutes in an hour)

and I now know it will take me at least

4.8 hours to walk the 24 kilometers.

That is not counting rest and food stops.

If I need to be in a village by 2pm

and it's 24 kilometers away,

I know I better get out of bed

and on the trail by 6 or 7 am.

No need to leave earlier than that!

 Fitbit has the same type of program,

and you can change it to count kilometers

instead of miles.

So don't let "kilometers' scare you.

It's easy peasy if you start thinking in kilometers now

during your training.

You'll be surprised how much it will help.

And please,

don't train too hard.

The Camino is a TREK,

not a mountain climbing expedition.

You should be able to CASUALLY walk

the distances

with plenty of rest stops between.

There are bars and places to sit and enjoy the countryside

all along The Way.

Don't rush.

Go slow.

Start of the first couple of days doing HALF-stages,

and slowly increase your distance.

Do not attempt to walk 

from SJPP to Roncesvalles the first day

unless you are in EXCELLENT condition.

Many people's Camino ends 

after that long hard stage.

Don't be silly.

Take your time

and have a BUEN CAMINO!

Love,

Annie

Getting LOST from LEON

Today, a peregrina posted 

that she got lost leaving Leon. 

Here is what she said:

On Monday morning, I left Leon at 0600. My mates were still sleeping but as I figured the street lighting would see me through til daylight, I was on my way. I was not aware at all that there are 2 forks in the path that need attention. I was focused on the yellow arrows all the way. By 1030, I was not seeing any anticipated coffee stops, I seemed to be going further into a mountain, away from civilization, more remote, not seeing any perigrinos, and noticing villages from afar (getting further away). I reluctantly decided to turn back, I had food, running out of water but was trying not to panic. I must have walked at least 10-15 km straight up. I began meeting people who explained I needed to go back to Leon as I somehow got on the San Sebastián Camino route. I got to the outskirts of Leon, composed myself, got a bus to the city, then a rural bus to San Martin del Camino where my bag was going. I was welcomed by a new group that helped me cry, tell my story, enjoy a community meal and move forward the next day. The purpose of this post is to warn people who don’t know (as I didn’t) that there are other Camino routes out of Leon - not just Camino Frances. Am presently in Rabanal del Camino and looking forward to Gregorian Chant tonight!

I actually was not aware of this split, 

so here is the information you need:

As you leave Leon, there is a split, 

right at the parador San Marcos. 

There is a pilgrim statue in front displaying options. 

To walk the Camino Francés, face the Parador, and turn left and walk on the bridge over the river.

To walk the Camino Salvador (beautiful but not as supported) you do not cross the river, but continue on the side of the parador and along the river.

More about leaving Leon...

I often don't walk 

through the industrial section of the city 

as I leave. 

I walk straight up the Av. Ordoño, 

which becomes Av. Palencia 

as though I was going 

to the train or bus station. 

Right after I cross the river, 

across from the Renfe station 

is a city bus stop on the right. 

I wait there for the city bus 

going to Virgen del Camino. 

I get off in Virgen del Camino, 

find breakfast and coffee,

and begin walking.

Pay attention 

when you get to the San Froilan Church. 

You can't miss it. 

It will be on the right and is very unusual.

There at the corner, 

you will CROSS THE STREET to the LEFT, 

and follow the yellow arrows 

to the RIGHT, up an alleyway, 

taking the alternative route 

to Villar de Mazarife. 

To me, 

this is a much more pleasant road, 

avoiding all that highway walking. 

Villar de Mazarife has several lovely albergues, including Albergue Jesus. 

Here is a link to a blog post 

with photos about that section:

http://caminosantiago2.blogspot.com/search?q=Vilar+de+Mazarife

Pharmacies on Call and If You Get the Flu

The first thing to notice is that in Spain, 

the Pharmacy is called a Farmacia 

and will display a BIG GREEN CROSS.

In Spain there is a term you will want to learn.

It is Farmacia de Guardia 

and it means 

Pharmacy on call.

This is regulated by the local Pharmacy authorities 

and what it means is this. 

There will ALWAYS be a Pharmacy 

open in every area. 

Some will be open until midnight.

Some will be open 24 hours, 

especially in larger cities.

When I say "in every area" 

bear in mind you are walking 

what would be considered short distances

 if you were in an automobile, 

so for instance, 

you may have to taxi ahead an entire stage 

to find an open Farmacia. 

But if it is an emergency, 

you will find one open 'in the area."

Pharmacists in Spain 

are allowed to prescribe many medications 

that would require a doctor's prescription in the USA.  

This means you can walk into any Farmacia, 

tell them or show them your problem, 

and they will prescribe what you need, 

whether it is for the flu, a cold, bedbug bites,

 or an injury.

On one of our first Caminos, 

Joe had a 2d degree burn on his leg. 

We walked into a Farmacia. 

The pharmacist sat him in a chair, 

washed the wound and dressed it, 

and gave him a tube of antibiotics. 

The cost was €6.

With so many pilgrims on the Camino these days,

you may not get that personalized treatment,

but you will find help.

If you have prescription medication that you require,

 please be sure to take 

the GENERIC name for the prescription 

in case you lose it or run out. 

Even better would be a written prescription 

from your doctor.  

You should not have any problems 

filling a prescription 

with one of these, 

unless it is for an opiate, 

in which case there will be a doctor 

in almost every larger town 

who can help you.

Fluimucil Complex

In case you get a cold or flu, 

let me tell you about a miracle drug
NOTE:  This works for ME.
You must be sure it does not conflict 

with any medications
you are already taking so be sure
to let the pharmacist know.

I always carry in my pack while in Spain.

 In fact, it works so good

 I bring boxes of it back with me each year

 because it is not available in the USA.  

It is called Fluimucil Complex.  

Here is a photo. 

FLUIMUCIL COMPLEX

The one above is a newer package 

and even though the "use before" date 

is 6/2018 on the lower one, 

I still use them and they work great.

This is a fizzy tablet. 

Drop it into water and let it dissolve, 

then drink.

I usually just use about 1/4 cup of water.

This magic combination of Paracetamol 

and Acetylcysteine 

allows me to keep walking the Camino 

if I get a cold or flu. 

It is the BEST thing since apple pie, in my opinion.    

It clears my sinuses, clears my head, 

and clears my lungs without making me sleepy. 

The first thing I do each Camino in Pamplona 

is pick up a box of this, "just in case."  

I never walk without it. 

It's that good.

Keep this photo on your phone 

and show it to the pharmacist

and insist on this particular one,

 because there are other types that look like this, 

but don't do the job. 

This one below is ONLY for lungs.

It is helpful for me, 

as I tend to get congestion in the lungs 

when I get a cold or flu. 

It is a powder. 

I pour it into 1/4 cup of warm water, 

stir, and drink it down. 

It will loosen phlegm and help me cough up the crud.

FLUMIL 200 mg

Do not let them sell you any other type 

of Fluimucil or Flumil.

There is another effervescent tablet 

called Fluimucil Forte.

It doesn't work for me.

Here is a photo of it.

There is also a liquid, that for me, does not work.

In the Farmacia, 

you can also buy Compeed 

and other blister helps,

Volteron, which is a non-steroidal 

anti-inflammatory cream,

helpful for sore muscles

and unavailable in the USA without prescription,

Alcohol Romero,

which is Alchol with Rosemary in it,

and wonderful for massaging sore legs and muscles.

You can find shoe inserts,

elastic bandages and compression socks,

a Spanish KT tape,

shampoos and body washes,

awesome organic makeups,

and a host of other products.

It's really worth a visit,

especially in the larger cities.

But I caution you not to weigh down

your pack until you arrive in Santiago,

where you will find plenty of Farmacias

and other shops

full of wonderful products

to take back home. 

Again, I suggest you copy the photo 

of Fluimucil Complex

onto your phone

just in case.

It could save your Camino.

I hope you don't need it!

I hope you stay healthy 

and have no problems at all.

But this info might be helpful.

Buen Camino!

Annie

***

NOTE:  I am not suggesting you take any drugs at all.

I'm simply telling you what works for me

You must do your own research

and be sure the meds you pick up in Spain

do not conflict with any you may be taking.

If you would like to walk with a small group,

consider Anniewalkers.

Our next available trip will be Holy Year 2022.

More information at 

www.anniewalkers.com

A Pilgrim is Grateful . . .

The Camino de Santiago is a pilgrimage, 
and nearly every Spanish person I've spoken to 
feels that way. 

Though some folks may argue 
the Camino was there

long before the Christians embraced it,

we are not in the past.

We are in the present.

And today, 

the Way is meant to be a way of penance

Not easy.

Not comfortable.

In other words, you are expected to suffer.

Pilgrimage: A religious journey; a holy expedition

Penance:  Voluntary punishment, self-inflicted, as an outward expression of repentance for having done wrong.

Whether you are Catholic or not,

whether you believe in God or not,

the fact is

you are walking a pilgrimage,

and very little convenience, 
as well as EVERY little convenience,

is to be thought of as a blessing.

Every inconvenience

is to be expected.

So, if you find there are no shower curtains 
on the doors,

or if the food is not good,

or costs too much,

or if you get blisters, shin splints, a sore back,

or even bedbugs,

don't be surprised.

Every challenge is a test 
of your fortitude,

and your gratitude.

Be grateful for a roof over your head at night,

for a bed to sleep on,

or even a nice mat on the floor!

Be grateful for a toilet in a bar,

and buy something to show your gratitude.

Be grateful for the stale bread and jam 

in the sleepy morning,

and the cold coffee 

that will give your body the energy to walk.

Be grateful for the rising sun,

the glorious colors reflected on the water,

the smell of the dew,

the rushing brooks,

the stork nests high above you,

the morning songbirds,

and the croaking frogs.

Be grateful for the lack of electric outlets 

to plug in your distracting devices,

as it will give you the opportunity 

to connect with fellow human beings,

something we've forgotten.

In fact, be grateful for no electricity at all

at sacred places like San Anton

or San Nicholas,

where you get the best meal,
the best view of the Milky Way,

and the best night's sleep

you've had in years.

Be grateful for the comfort of

the snoring pilgrim in the bed next to yours.

Be very grateful for a shower, 

to wash off the sweat and the dust of the day,

and be grateful whether the water 
is hot or cold,

and whether or not there is a curtain.

Be grateful for cool, fresh spring water to drink

from the fountains in every village.

Be grateful for the amazing support

you will receive
all along The Way,

for the bars where you can get a cold drink

and a free tapa to sustain you,

for the local people

who have so much patience with you,

who allow you to dirty their countryside

with your used toilet paper,

to leave graffiti on their sacred rocks,

and national treasures,

who will point the direction when you are lost,

who will feed you when you are hungry,

who will dress your wounds when you are injured,

and give you cold water when you are thirsty.

Be grateful you have legs to walk,

feet to carry you,

shoes on your feet,

and be especially grateful 

when you notice some walk The Way

barefoot and silent

Be grateful for ears to hear 

the morning choir 

that travels around and sings to the pilgrims

in the springtime,

their voices sweet and pure,

the harmonies lifting your soul.

Be grateful for a nose to smell the rain, 

that same rain that is making the trail so muddy,

and to smell the sweat of that pilgrim next to you.

Be grateful for eyes to see 
the beauty of the landscape,

much unchanged for hundreds of years,

the whitewashed buildings,

the crumbling buildings,

the restored buildings,

the rolling velvet hills,

the red fields of poppies,

the waving oceans of wheat,

and the twinkle in the eyes

of the abuelas who offer you 

their ripe cerezas and figs.

Be grateful for the grouchy priest

who refuses to give you a blanket when it is cold

because he believes you still have not

suffered enough!

Be grateful for the nun

who stamps your credential,

and sings you songs of blessing

as you sit around with other wanderers

and feel true joy

for maybe the first time you can remember.

Be grateful for the pilgrim plates

that feel so redundant after the first week,

the plates of pasta,

the jars of wine,

the baskets of bread,

the ensaladas covered in fresh tuna.

Be grateful for the Pilgrim Blessing

you receive at Roncesvalles
 or Viana 
or Tosantos

and even if you are not Catholic,

be grateful 
and be touched by the sincerity

of those wishing you so much goodness.

Be grateful for a bar of soap to wash your clothes,

and for clean underwear,

for a line to hang your clothes in the sunshine,

or inside if it's raining.

Be grateful for those who entertain us

with their guitars, their drums, their didgeridoos,

and their voices,

even singing off-key as they walk.

Be grateful for family style dinners,

nearly extinct in our busy modern world.

Be grateful for no wifi,

and ANOTHER chance to bury your iPhone

in your pocket,

and another few moments of 
face to face conversation 

with a fellow human being.

Be grateful for the smell of cow shit!

It is the reason for the  

luscious café con leche you drink each morning,

and the beefsteak on your plate at night.

Be grateful for the tinkling of bells in the fog,

and for the herds of sheep that block your path,

for they provide the cheese in your pack.

Be grateful even for the flies,

because they clear the path of the manure over time.

Be grateful for those blisters on your heel.

They are your body telling you to take better care

of your feet, and not to take them for granted.

Be grateful for the selflessness shown
by a young pilgrim 
offering the bottom bunk 
to an elder with grey hair
and aching bones.

Be grateful for the sun on your back,

the rain on your face,

the wind that buffets you,

the snow that forces you inside

to sit around a warm fire

and again enjoy the company 
of new-found friends.

Be grateful for the taxis and buses

that will carry you from one village to the next

when you have walked all day

only to find a sign on the door saying, "Completo!"

Be grateful for the kind hospitalera

who will put her arms around you

and comfort you

when tears of exhaustion 

overtake you, 
or the pharmacist
who will wash and dress your wounds,
or the pilgrim who will massage and care 
for your weary, blistered feet.

Be grateful for a doorway you can sleep in,

the doorway of a church,

an abandoned building,

a park bench...

Be grateful for your heavy mochila,

and the lesson to lighten your burden

not only on the Camino,

but in life.

Be grateful that you are learning 

what is REALLY important

and what is not.

And lastly,
be grateful for those who complain...

about the lack,

about their needs being unmet,

about the dirty sheets,

and no blankets,

and bedbugs,

and the food not being cooked their way,

about having to wait in line,

having to rush for a bed,

having to share bathrooms,

no mirror,

no towels,

no pillow,

no shower curtain,

about their fellow pilgrims,

about the guy not carrying his backpack,

or the girl jabbering on her phone,

or the old people walking too slow,

or the rocky path,

the muddy path,

the fog, 

the fire crackers at night,

the borachos downstairs,

the lack of porta potties on the path,

the slow service,

the lack of English (in a Spanish speaking country)

the lack of nut-free, lacto-free, gluten-free, meat free meals,

open windows in the albergue,

closed windows in the albergue,

having to climb up on a bunkbed,

about another book being written,

or another video being made,

or the crowds,

or no bed tonight,

or (fill in the blank).

Be grateful you can smile at them,

let their complaints roll off your back,

count your blessings,

and continue on The Way

with a song in your head

and gratitude in your heart.

Be grateful.

Love Annie